Sunday, September 9

It’s day 9 of our Team River Runner Grand Canyon kayak trip. Today is a new day and it’s time to get moving.

This morning after a tasty breakfast of fried tortilla shells cooked with eggs inside (which I’m told are called “migos”) we are on the river by 8 a.m. and headed toward another beautiful slot canyon hike at Havasu Creek, just over five miles downriver from our campsite with no major rapids between here and there.

I’m feeling sluggish this morning. As I reported in my previous post, last night the Ledges campsite was not my best. I still have awfully sore ribs this morning. 152 miles into our 226-mile adventure, I know some of the other kayakers must also be dealing with aches and pains. However, I’ve got nothing to complain about because I can see. Guiding five incredible blind kayakers helps keep things in perspective.

Once we arrive at Havasu Canyon we paddle up the creek against a steady but manageable current for a few hundred yards before beaching the kayaks and setting off on foot to explore further. It’s a magical place. At the bottom of impossibly tall walls, jade-colored waters dance over and around the boulder-strewn canyon floor.

We all find favorite ways to cool off in the inviting cascades. After dunking myself several times in the creek, I find a large boulder to stretch out on and promptly fall asleep for a much needed nap.

Bill, Kathy and Rachel savor the chance to wash off some silt from the Colorado River.
Big Mike floats in the foam.
Jeff and Timmy assist Lonnie up Havasu Canyon.
Amy looks pretty relaxed as she enjoys the soothing water of Havasu Creek.

 

 

Russell Davies, Steve Mace and Harlan Taney paddle and portage their kayaks farther upstream than the rest of so they can boof some of the small Havasu Creek waterfalls that lead back to the Colorado.
Eventually Mace informs us it’s time to leave this enchanting place so we head back down to the boats.

 

The rest of the day is laid back — 15 miles of mostly flat water. Mace reminds us to “paddle with a purpose” and not rely solely on the current. At mile 171.6 we arrive at our day nine campsite, Stairway Canyon.

Tonight at camp Amy goes around to each member of the group and paints blue nail polish on our big toe. We’re told this is a Grand Canyon ritual for good luck and to appease the river gods before taking on the most legendary rapid in the canyon tomorrow. Amy says the actual superstition is to paint all the toe nails but she doesn’t have enough polish to go around so she decides to paint only left foot big toes. Why the left foot? It’s a show of solidarity with Brian, one of our courageous veterans. Brian doesn’t have a right foot.

After dinner the crew serves up a delicious chocolate cake, freshly baked in a Dutch oven. Candles are lit and we sing happy birthday to Brett Lowell, even though he says it’s not actually his birthday today. No matter. We relish every opportunity to celebrate, especially to break the tension on this eve of Lava Falls.

Soon it’s time for bed. I try to sleep and not think about the behemoth rapid that awaits us just eight miles down the river.

Eric’s foot (left) and mine painted for good luck before Lava Falls
Kathy, Brian, Steve and Travis at camp. Photo by James Q Martin

 

Next: Lava Falls

2 thoughts on “Grand Canyon – Day 9: Havasu Creek

    1. Thanks! As of today I still have a little blue remaining on my big toe. It’s a nice reminder of an amazing time.

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